Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada
Pictured Above: Edith Cavell - gorgeous upon breathtaking. Take me back, now.
Just a few weeks after coming back to LA from my trip to Vancouver and Banff National Park, I somehow found myself boarding a plane last minute going back up to Vancouver, hopping in a rental SUV, and taking an eight hour road trip east to Jasper National Park in Alberta, which is literally adjacent (north) to Banff. I did not know, when I had visited Banff a few weeks earlier, that nearby Jasper would be even more beautiful than Banff. It is true that Banff appears to be the more famous of the two national parks, I think because of all the Grammable photos taken of Lake Louise. However, by my post, I hope to do Jasper justice, and convince you to make time for this gem. After all, they are right next to each other, so you might as well fit it in!
If you wonder why I actually prefer Jasper, it's because it is less crowded, the views are even more majestic, and there are countless vistas (waterfalls, glaciers, hikes, wildlife) to see along the Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93). It is so easy to get to everything because they are all right off the highway. If you are coming from Banff, all you have to do is keep heading north and onto the 93. In fact, they call it the Icefields Parkway because it is dotted with over 100 ancient glaciers, cascading waterfalls, dramatic spires, and emerald lakes at their base. It is a 144 mile (232 km) stretch of relentless beauty that stuns the senses. I literally stopped to pull over every few miles.
On my trip up to Jasper, we alternated between camping in our SUV, staying in a tent in a campsite, and staying in a hotel/cabin. It was still a little chilly there in the evenings, even though it was late-August.
Maligne Canyon
Maligne is located on Maligne Lake Road, and is just 10 minutes northeast of Jasper town. From east side of Jasper town, take Hwy 16 east and then take the turn off for Maligne Lake Road to the right. Proceed over the bridge across the river, and stay left at the fork in the road. Then you will see the sign for Maligne Canyon.
Maligne is a slot canyon in Jasper National Park. It is the deepest canyon in the Rocky Mountains, where you can cross a series of six bridges to gain different vantages on the canyon. It is an easy hike - 2.7 mile out and back - and you are rewarded with amazing waterfall views. Limestone is one of the most prevalent minerals found there. You could see most of it in an hour!
Another view point of a perfect hour I spent at Maligne. You literally cannot take a bad picture here, or anywhere in Jasper really.
Athabasca Falls
Athabasca Falls is a waterfall (surprise surprise), located on the upper Athabasca River, about 19 miles (30 km for you metric folk) south of the town of Jasper, and just west off the Icefields Parkway. It is a Class 5 waterfall. Waterfalls are classified according to the Beisel Rating based on water volume, ranging from 0.1 (miniscule waterfall) to 10 (massive). It has a total drop height of 79 feet and the force of the water is quite powerful, as demonstrated in the video I took below.
The falls can be viewed from various platforms along the edge of each side.
Pictured above: You can just make out the rainbow against the rocks.
The falls are an extremely easy 0.6 mile out-and-back trail, and you can literally be done seeing it in as little as 15 minutes. There is a parking lot very nearby which makes this super convenient. Where I live , you just can't get sights like this since we are in a massive drought.
Athabasca Glacier
The picture above was literally my view from the car, along the Icefields Parkway, facing the Athabasca Glacier. This is the most visited glacier in North America! The leading edge of the glacier is within easy walking distance, but do not attempt to hike the glacier unless you are properly equipped! People have been killed on it. Glacier tours are available, and you can also use the opportunity to take pictures on the glass-floored Skywalk.
By the way, just because I wrote about Athabasca Falls before this, don't assume that the Athabasca Glacier is closeby to the similarly named falls. The Glacier is actually 53 minutes south - 33 miles, by car.
A panorama taken from near the river just below the glacier offers a hint of what the 180 view would look like in-person. Pictures never do it justice!
Sadly, this majestic glacier has been steadily losing depth due to global warming, and has now lost over half of its volume in just the past 125 years.
Pictured above: Me, perched at the precipice of the glacier.
Mount Edith Cavell
This has got to be one of the most beautiful sights of Jasper. Mount Edith Cavell is approximately 45 minutes south of Jasper town. There is a parking lot, but the number of parking stalls is limited, so try to go early or later in the day if you're visiting during busy season.
Time lapse of our drive into the trail head for Edith Cavell gives you a glimpse of how dramatic the mountain views are.
There is an easy hike called the Path of the Glacier Trail and another more difficult hike called Cavell Meadows Trail. They both start at the same parking lot and up the same path, before the route splits.
The Path of the Glacier is the shortest hike at approximately 0.8 miles out and back. The path starts paved but changes to rock and soil. I'd allocate an hour or hour and a half for this easy hike, as you'll also want to give yourself time at the end to enjoy the turquoise meltwater of the Cavell Pond beneath the jagged peak of Mount Edith Cavell.
In the video below, you'll notice glacier water cascading off the cliff face into the pond below and hear the cracking of ice.
The Cavell Meadows Trail is approximately 4 miles roundtrip out and back, which will take you somewhere between 3-5 hours, and has an elevation gain of 500 m and has some moderate steep paths. The trail is rocky and uneven.
Mount Edith Cavell stands 11,033 ft tall, and there are several climbing routes - west ridge, east ridge, and north face (which is noted as one of the classic climbs of North America). The first ascents were made in the 1960s.
Rearguard Falls
Rearguard Falls is located about 1 hour northwest of Jasper town, in British Columbia. It is inside Rearguard Falls Provincial Park on the Fraser River. There is a good length of boardwalk trail so you can get good views of the water and powerful current. The chinook, the largest of the salmon, battle their way upstream over 745 miles here, to the place of their birth. Their lives end once they make this momentous journey to give life to the next generation of chinook.
While it is named Rearguard "Falls", it's more of a series of rapids and cascades on the Fraser River - don't expect a giant waterfall. This is a very simple boardwalk (about 0.4 miles) and you can see it all in half an hour.
Wildlife Sightings!
While in Jasper, you are likely to bump into wildlife. We would know something was afoot when we saw cars unceremoniously pulled, haphazardly, onto the shoulder.
This bear was pretty close to us. I was taking this video safely within the confines of my vehicle. I've seen videos online of people getting out of their cars at places like Yellowstone, getting near some dangerous animals just to get pictures, which I don't recommend! After only a short while, the park ranger cruised by to make sure nobody was doing anything foolish.
Meanwhile, in another section, we happened upon these mountain climbers. Watch the video until the end for the surprise guest!
More animals grazing against an idyllic backdrop.
Verdict? 10/10. Don't waste anymore time and put this place on your bucket list! It is one of the most beautiful places I have been, and I am grateful I that I had the chance to see it.
