Patagonia, Chile
When you fly all the way down to the tip of the continent opposite your own, you should give yourself ample time to enjoy it. That is exactly what I did not do. Nonetheless, I am going to blog about my journey because though short, it was memorable.
If you're flying down there, Punta Arenas is the airport you'll be disembarking from when you arrive in Patagonia. I went in their "summer", which was basically the coldest summer I've ever experienced, with a "summer" in San Francisco following in close second.
From Punta Arenas, we rented a car from the airport to begin our drive up to Puerto Natales, which is basically the closest city to Torres del Paine National Park. Upon leaving the airport, I experienced an unrelenting and bone chilling wind gust that had me drop my suitcase in the middle of the road just to pull out anything that could warm me up, no matter how mismatched.
Once you hop in your car and turn on the heat and drive out of the airport though, you are rewarded with beautiful wide open landscape and a strange sensation if you've never been close (ish) to the South Pole. It was strange to able to see the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans from one spot, and to have an absolutely unfettered view of the horizon, without pesky civilian settlements in the way, without telephone poles and wires. Not only that, but at that time of year, we got to experience long daylight, with the sun rising around 4:30 or 5:00 a.m. and not going down until almost midnight.
Our trip to Patagonia focused on a visit to Torres del Paine, specifically the Mirador las Torres hike. Yes, you will ask whether I visited Fitz Roy or Perito Moreno, the other major sites in that area, and tragically the answer is no and I will kick myself in the derrier for having somehow mismanaging the organization of this trip - too many days in Buenos Aires, not enough in Patagonia. So I will make up for that by eagerly describing my time in Torres del Paine.
Upon arriving in the park, we left our car in the visitor lot, about 1 mile out from the Mirador Las Torres trailhead as the one closest to the beginning of the trail is only open for guests of the Hotel Las Torres. Plan on arriving EARLY in high season as the trail gets very crowded, and you want to give yourself plenty of time depending on your fitness level. Further, the iconic view of the torres is often obscured by fog, so you will want to give yourself some time to enjoy the top and if you have fog, to see if it dissipates. It makes a big difference for the view. I was lucky as by the time I got to the top, the torres were viewable.
The Mirador hike is about 11 miles roundtrip and 3000 elevation gain. I have seen some estimates for the distance range from 10.6 to 11.9. Not sure which it is since I didn't track the distance myself. Depending on your level, I have seen times for this hike range from around 6 to 10 hours. I did quite a bit of reading before embarking on the trek because I am noobish in my hiking and endurance. Reading other people's blogs helped me anticipate what it would be like. Many of those blogs mentioned that this was not an easy hike. In fact, it is rated as difficult on AllTrails. Take a look at viewer reviews here.
I would characterize the hike as being split up into three phases: phase 1 is moderate and continuous uphill, phase 2 is a relatively level area of hiking through the trees with some elevation gain, and phase 3 is an unrelenting and STEEP boulder scramble to the top.
If you are interested in taking a peak at what it would be like, here is a great video of the hike from start to finish that I found on YouTube by globekarter. Phase 1 starts at 16 seconds with the view of the refugio and windy pass at 40 seconds in; Phase 2 at 1:02; Phase 3 at about 3:01, and finally the view of the towers begins at 4:14.
Shortly into phase 1, depicted above. The views throughout are gorgeous and the air crisp and clean, unlike the usual city air I'm accustomed to. In phase 1, it will be a slow and steady continuous uphill incline.
You may see horse riders at this early stage.
At about 75% into phase 1, the hike will open up and there will be a valley below. Your path becomes very exposed - they call it the Paso de los Vientos meaning Windy Pass - and I'd advise that you stay close to the mountain side if it is windy. I have heard (thankfully not experienced) of rough weather where the wind got so high that people had to sit down and hold onto the path for fear of being blown off or losing their balance. Also, you will want to bring layers for the hike as it gets hot and cold and hot and cold. The hike on the windy pass is really the only part of phase 1 that is flat and not uphill.
After phase 1, you will reach a "refugio". For anyone in the Spanish speaking world, that means something akin to a mountain refuge/lodge, where you have a respite and chance to order some food and drinks, and a chance to use the bathrooms (you will have to pay).
Pictured above is the beautiful river at the end of phase 1, and start of phase 2, right by the refugio.
If you are in high season, you will probably be in a queue of hikers from this point on to the very top. You can't see them in the photo, but I assure you they were all around me outside of the shot! Even though we started this hike very early, there were still a lot of people. I can't imagine what it would be like later in the day. I have to say that I enjoyed phase 2 quite a lot because it felt the most like a forest, with denser canopy and the gushing river alongside the part.
You will know you've reached the end of phase 2 however when the trail opens up again and there will be signs indicating the final traverse. At this juncture, you may notice a sign for the bathroom and you will have the opportunity to use it again (it's a little off the path) before phase 3. I was sure glad for this because I have a tiny bladder.
Pictured above, I stopped to snag a photo before the start of phase 3, which is clearly marked by the end of all things green and replaced by a rocky outcrop.
Phase 3, depicted above, is basically a vertical rock scramble consisting of huge boulders and a huge incline - something like Frodo and Sam's final pass into Mount Doom except without all the smoke and ash. Your destination is basically at the top . From watching other people's videos of this phase before my own trip, it was the part I dreaded the most but fear not, if I can do it, you can! Just be prepared for a lot of huffing and puffing and go at your own pace.
The view of the torres, peaking out from your hard work. Get over those last few boulders so you can see the water!
When you crest the top of the last of the boulders, you will be rewarded the view that brought you here in the first place - the intense green water below the base of the torres. What a sight to behold! Caution, the water is too cold really to take a dip in.
Remember to save some energy for the hike back. Going down is quite a different challenge from going up - and hard on the knees. The walking sticks helped here as much as got in the way!
By the time we reached the refugio, I knew i was 2/3 of the way back, but had spent 99.9% of my energy. I ordered a meal and drink but almost couldn't eat it because I had no energy to do so. But at the same time I needed the energy to finish the last of the hike, so I sat and ate in silence, because priorities at this point and talking isn't one of them!
All in all, the trip to Patagonia was far too short but extremely memorable. I really wish I gave it a few more days so that i could visit Perito Moreno and Fitz Roy. Next time!
