Old San Juan
Coming to Puerto Rico is interesting because if you live anywhere else in the U.S., it feels like you're setting foot in a place completely outside of U.S. territory. While many Puerto Ricans want statehood and U.S. citizenship, as of now, they are still a U.S. commonwealth. This commonwealth hosts the United States' only rainforest, El Yunque. It also has three of the world's six bioluminescent bays.
One thing is clear from a picture like the above, which I took right outside our boutique hotel in Old San Juan - the bold and colorful buildings which you really don't see in the states. I felt like a character from Lois Lowry's The Giver, selected to glimpse the world in its true colors.
Right when we got to the hotel, we rushed to the roof.
Lounging in our pool
We stayed in Old San Juan, which is about 8 to 10 miles from the airport. Uber exists here, but they have a very tense relationship with the the taxi companies. We called an Uber and waited outside a Starbucks. When the Uber came, the taxi drivers came out and yelled at us. We had to ask the driver to meet us about 2 blocks down, where we then got in in a rush. Their police even help enforce the rights of the taxis.
Enjoying the nice view and weather at Castillo de San Cristóbal in Old San Juan. The fort was built by Spain to protect against land based attacks on the city of San Juan.
Another picture at the fort of Castillo de San Cristóbal in Old San Juan
After the fort, we took a walk around the city, and discovered it's run by stray cats. These are well-mannered, responsible catizens who look both ways before crossing the street.
Gorgeous views.
More stunning views.
After a long day, it was time to hit the salsa club. Drinks on the house!
If you are a fan of mixology, you must stop by La Factoria, located at Calle San Sebastián 148. It has been voted as one of the top 50 bars in the world. If you didn't know any better, you might think this was a 1 room bar. However, if you go to the far back corner, you will find an entrance to another bar. At the corner of this second bar, you will find a discreet door to a third larger bar with dance floor. In a certain section of this bar, there will be yet another doorway to a fourth cozy bar area, which feels very underground. It is like a Russian nesting doll of bars in here!
You will also realize that La Factoria sits on a street filled with other bars. Go bar hopping!
El Yunque Rainforest in Puerto Rico. Super easy to just rent a car and drive here.
Hiking in El Yunque to get to the waterfall.
Kayak the Bioluminescent Bays
We visited Vieques' "Mosquito Bay", but don't let that name deter you. It is the world's brightest bioluminsecent bay. I don't recall getting any mosquito bites, but I also lathered on quite a bit of repellant. To get to this island, you can rent a car from Old San Juan (or where ever you are staying on the mainland) and drive down to the ferry dock at Playa de Fajardo, which you will take to Isla de Vieques. Alternatively, catch an uber or cab. Keep in mind, there will be no ubers picking up from here for your way back because area is quiet, so you will be stuck getting a cab for the return leg. In addition, I hear these ferries can involve very long lines, so arrive early. We were fortunate to come on an off-day. Upon arrival in Vieques, you can catch a shuttle van, which drops visitors off at their hotels. It was only $10 per person roundtrip for the shuttle. Vieques Island is rather quiet, so don't expect a huge island party. There are two main areas to stay on the island, but I recommend staying in the southern portion, which is walking distance to the bioluminescent bay kayak tours. Finally, plan your visit accordingly so you arrive at a time furthest away from a full moon! I can't stress this enough because the moonlight will reduce visibility of the luminescence. Photo above by Cayly Evans.
Fun fact: Each gallon of Mosquito Bay water holds some 750,000 dinoflagellates. The dinoflagellates, when disturbed, emit a glow.
Take the glass bottom kayaks so you can see them glow! Finally, swimming is not allowed in Mosquito Bay to help preserve the bay's glow.
Waiting to get on the ferry back to the mainland from Vieques island.
We found the tastiest brunch place called Caficultura. Your taste buds will thank you.
We walked into a random Italian restaurant while we were here. Yes, it's not Puerto Rican food, but it was tasty!
Where should I stay? - We stayed in Old San Juan, but you can also stay in Condado. Personally, I would recommend Old San Juan.
How much time do I need here? Old San Juan is fairly small. You could walk the entire area in 1 day, and 2 full days here would probably be enough. Vieques Island is also fairly quiet. 1 overnight stay is all that's needed to do the kayak tour.
Is there decent nightlife? - Yes! (See above).
Zika? - We went during a time when Puerto Rico was in the midst of a Zika outbreak. Despite that, we still went. I came back with about 10 bites, but my friend had about 20. Neither of us felt sick, and neither of us is pregnant or trying to get pregnant. Since then, they have lowered their alert level to Level 2. You should be fine as long as you constantly apply insect repellant. Keep in mind, Puerto Rico is an island, surrounded by water, and often very warm - ideal climate for mosquitos.
