Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu
Cusco, the Inca capital, is only an hour and a half flight away from Lima, but it is the first stop for most tourists who fly in from all over the world to see the country's most famous attraction, Machu Picchu. I loved my time in this region of Peru because it preserved its historic character and the sweeping landscape is unparalleled.
Upon arrival in the city of Cusco, most people will feel a noticeable difference in the air. That's because the city lies 11,000 feet above sea level. I felt a sense of lightheadedness within my first few steps inside the hotel, Rumi Punku. Travelers are often advised to drink coca tea to help with the effects of altitude. Most people become acclimated to the altitude within a day or two of arrival.
Cusco was the capital of the Incan empire between 13th and 16th century, until the Spanish conquest. The Plaza de Armas is Cusco's most well known feature. Within this plaza lies Paddy's Irish Pub, the highest altitude pub owned by an Irishman. It is also where I went one evening before I felt ready for bed and had the opportunity to meet many locals and tourists alike. I had the fortune of meeting Ollie, who is part of a team of cartographers who create their own versions of maps of Cusco, Machu Picchu and South America. According to Ollie, it took his team 9 months of hard wrto complete their map of Machu Picchu.
In the Cusco region, we encountered Peruvian weavers, who are simultaneously preserving their traditions and sustaining their local economy. Weaving has made a revival since the rise of tourism in Cusco and the surrounding area.
The Urubamba Valley, known as the Sacred Valley, is a valley in the Andes and between Cusco and Machu Picchu. It is known as the heartland of the Inca empire, and encompasses a number of sites, including the Pisac ruins, pictured below. The Pisac archaeological site is a gorgeous, green area set high above a valley floor patch-worked by patterned fields and agricultural terraces cut into the hillsides. A 20 minute climb to the top of the ruins offers an amazing panoramic view as well as good cardio. The Pisac market in the village is lined with tons of stalls and vendors, and it is where you should buy your souvenirs. Even if you aren't much of a souvenir collector, it's still fun to walk down the aisles and see the local craft.
The town of Aguas Calientes is just a 30 minute bus ride away from Machu Picchu. Travelers who decide not to do the challenging hike into the ruins (or who simply weren't able to because the trail tickets sold out) will take a train from the Sacred Valley into Aguas Calientes. They will also have the option of upgrading to a Vista Dome train, which has glass ceilings and wider windows to offer passengers better views of the landscape. Upon exiting the train station and arriving in Aguas Calientes, I found myself transported to a place like I have never seen. The air is crisp; the view amazing. A tiny town nestled in the middle of towering green mountains which surround it on all sides, accompanied by a fast flowing rocky stream down the middle.
Finally, the end destination from which Peru undisputably derives it's number one source of tourism- Machu Picchu. You will have to wake up early, and I mean very early. The first bus leaves Aguas Calientes at 5:30 a.m. If you get there at 5:30, you will be stuck toward the back of a very long line with travelers and stray dogs, and assuredly not make the first (or first few) buses. Fortunately, our guide woke up earlier to save us a spot in line and to allow us time to eat breakfast. While everyone has undoubtedly seen dozens of photos of Machu Picchu, no two-dimensional photo can do justice the experience of being there for yourself. We also climbed Huayna Picchu, which is the large peak in the background of the photo below. Huayna Picchu will take about 2-3 hours total, depending on how fast you climb and how long you stay at the top. Be prepared for a major cardio workout and to feel the burn! Even though I did not train for the hike up, I found it totally do-able by taking rest breaks. It is very steep, and the aerial views at the top offer a unique glimpse of the ruins and a stunning panoramis.
A view from near the top of Huayna Picchu reveals how high it is. The peak is about 8,900 feet above sea level, or about 1,180 feet above Machu Picchu. Huayna Picchu has a separate entrance fee from Machu Picchu. The daily number of visitors allowed to go up Huayna Picchu is limited to 400 and two entrance times, so advance purchase of the tickets is a good idea.
